It's not a life sentence.
Instead of trying to recall my first visit to Lagos (now almost a month ago), here are some excerpts from e-mails I shot home to my family, usually in the wee hours of the morning thanks to the effects of jet lag. I make no claims that this will be readable or entertaining. Only that it is honest.
Day One. Following is my day one impression. On day three now, but have been too tired to write it down. More to come. So far, all I have seen of Lagos was the trip from the airport to the compound (which is really just an apartment complex with walls and security). Saw lots of slums and people living in make-shift housing, saw a man bathing in a pond of water that had collected under a freeway bridge, kids playing soccer in a field lined with garbage, but I also saw people dancing in the streets, lots of economic activity, traditional and modern clothes. Women carrying baskets of apples on their heads. Men hanging out of the bus doors in traffic. LOTS of scooters everywhere -- they're used like taxis around here and hard hats seem a perfectly acceptable alternative to helmets. Some held inches above their heads so as not to muss hairstyles.
AK-47s at the airport ... cool. Friendly, family-oriented. Lots of competition for few resources. Traffic is gridlock. For some reason, none of this seems very alarming or scary. Must be getting jaded in my old age. End of day one: No reason yet to rule out a move here, but doesn't seem as wonderful an adventure now either. Having coffee and lunch with expat ladies today. Touring American school on Thursday. Taking lots of pictures, too.
Day Two. Had tea with the British Womens Group Tuesday. Met one lady who has 4 children and just moved to Lagos 6 wks ago. I asked her if it was a difficult decision and she said as she had married a man from the Ivory Coast, she had long ago made the decision to move here. Met a Dutch woman who is very involved in an orphanage for special needs children who are generally abandoned by their parents as possessed or alien. The orphanage just bought land to expand and needs to build a fence around the property before others start to build. Property rights not well maintained here. If you build on it, it is yours. Hence the need for a fence. They also need a van. Wonder if I can open a paypal account and raise funds at home to help. Time for nap. Much more to tell but can't keep eyes open.
Day Three. Started the day visiting Banana Island. Best I can figure is that Lagos is a series of islands: Victoria Island, Lekhi, Ikoyo, Banana and Lagos. Banana and Ikoyo are connected by a land bridge that floods easily in the rainy season (which is now). We drove through hood (or "bonnet") deep water to get to Banana. Trip took close to half hour but was only 10 blocks away.
Few roads are paved or have drainage but the city is putting in concrete drainage ditches now on the road btwn Banana and Ikoya to hopefully alleviate the flooding. At any rate, Banana Island is home to several expat compounds and we toured one rented by friend who I had met the day before. Very modern with large balconies, marble tile floors, 4 bedrooms all with attached baths (including bidets), built-in fridge, views of ocean and squatters living in empty lot next door. There's also driver's quarters which is large enough for a narrow bed, shelf with bar for clothes and bathroom. You HAVE to have a driver here. Driving is a free for all and good maps don't exist.
Compound also featured pool, fitness center, basketball and tennis courts. We are returning tomorrow to meet with leasing mgr to inquire about floor plans, availability and price. My friend is paying $120,000 annual rent, plus a maintenance fee probably around $25k. Security at front gate and at each bldg.
Met with doctors at SOS clinic in afternoon. One German, one Dutch. Gave us tour of clinic and answered all my questions. Most severe cases they've seen this year related to asthma ( pre-existing) so comfortable with health risks.
Running out of batteries and it's late but will write more tomorrow.
Love Suzy
Day Four. Started the day back at Banana Island to speak to leasing mgr at apts we visited yesterday. Mgr was not there. "we should have called," says the receptionist. We did call. Oh well. Didn't feel like home anyway so went next door to Shell compound. Able to get in and see very friendly mgr who showed us lovely 4 BR apt that I am in love with. Am ready to sign the lease. Will post pics later. All the amenities and lots of kiddos. Cute playground including playhouse that Bitsy would flip for.
Next to lunch at Chocolate Royale where you can get plenty of American fare like burgers and quesadillas. Then to American school where there is a waiting list but "true blue Americans" like us should have no problem getting in. So we will fill out apps for all three and hope to have a place for twins by January. Dane is eligible for pre-k next fall.
Next we went to Goody's Market for a few groceries and wine. I took pictures of every aisle. You can get almost everything but it's expensive! Ice cream is $20. Flour is $7. Jar of mayo $8. Food bill is biggest expense here (at least the expense we would be responsible for - we won't pay for drivers, school, home, etc. Plus 3 trips anywhere we want each year. Home for Xmas and summer and Capetown for Spring Break? Spain? Kenya? Paris. All options.)
Cocktail hour now. Write more later. We're ordering pizza in tonight.
Day Five. We'll be at airport during dinnertime so no call tonight. We'll see you in the morning. Thanks for everything!
Big hugs and kisses to the kiddos. Can't wait to see them!
One last note. Thus ends the e-mail excerpts, but do want to add one more note. On day two, I met a lovely woman who works as a nurse at the British Embassy. She spoke to me earnestly for at least half an hour, and one piece of advice I remember particularly. She said, "If you don't like it, go home. It's not a life sentence."
Sounds simple, right? But it honestly hadn't occurred to me. Of course, I have a choice. I will always have choices. And that made it so much easier to make this choice. And so to Lagos we go.
Day One. Following is my day one impression. On day three now, but have been too tired to write it down. More to come. So far, all I have seen of Lagos was the trip from the airport to the compound (which is really just an apartment complex with walls and security). Saw lots of slums and people living in make-shift housing, saw a man bathing in a pond of water that had collected under a freeway bridge, kids playing soccer in a field lined with garbage, but I also saw people dancing in the streets, lots of economic activity, traditional and modern clothes. Women carrying baskets of apples on their heads. Men hanging out of the bus doors in traffic. LOTS of scooters everywhere -- they're used like taxis around here and hard hats seem a perfectly acceptable alternative to helmets. Some held inches above their heads so as not to muss hairstyles.
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| "Okadas" are taxi scooters |
 |
| Mobile tailor (that's his sewing machine on his head) |
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| Tea at the British Women's Club |
Few roads are paved or have drainage but the city is putting in concrete drainage ditches now on the road btwn Banana and Ikoya to hopefully alleviate the flooding. At any rate, Banana Island is home to several expat compounds and we toured one rented by friend who I had met the day before. Very modern with large balconies, marble tile floors, 4 bedrooms all with attached baths (including bidets), built-in fridge, views of ocean and squatters living in empty lot next door. There's also driver's quarters which is large enough for a narrow bed, shelf with bar for clothes and bathroom. You HAVE to have a driver here. Driving is a free for all and good maps don't exist.
 |
| Driver's quarters |
Met with doctors at SOS clinic in afternoon. One German, one Dutch. Gave us tour of clinic and answered all my questions. Most severe cases they've seen this year related to asthma ( pre-existing) so comfortable with health risks.
Running out of batteries and it's late but will write more tomorrow.
Love Suzy
Day Four. Started the day back at Banana Island to speak to leasing mgr at apts we visited yesterday. Mgr was not there. "we should have called," says the receptionist. We did call. Oh well. Didn't feel like home anyway so went next door to Shell compound. Able to get in and see very friendly mgr who showed us lovely 4 BR apt that I am in love with. Am ready to sign the lease. Will post pics later. All the amenities and lots of kiddos. Cute playground including playhouse that Bitsy would flip for.
Next to lunch at Chocolate Royale where you can get plenty of American fare like burgers and quesadillas. Then to American school where there is a waiting list but "true blue Americans" like us should have no problem getting in. So we will fill out apps for all three and hope to have a place for twins by January. Dane is eligible for pre-k next fall.
Next we went to Goody's Market for a few groceries and wine. I took pictures of every aisle. You can get almost everything but it's expensive! Ice cream is $20. Flour is $7. Jar of mayo $8. Food bill is biggest expense here (at least the expense we would be responsible for - we won't pay for drivers, school, home, etc. Plus 3 trips anywhere we want each year. Home for Xmas and summer and Capetown for Spring Break? Spain? Kenya? Paris. All options.)
Cocktail hour now. Write more later. We're ordering pizza in tonight.
Day Five. We'll be at airport during dinnertime so no call tonight. We'll see you in the morning. Thanks for everything!
Big hugs and kisses to the kiddos. Can't wait to see them!
One last note. Thus ends the e-mail excerpts, but do want to add one more note. On day two, I met a lovely woman who works as a nurse at the British Embassy. She spoke to me earnestly for at least half an hour, and one piece of advice I remember particularly. She said, "If you don't like it, go home. It's not a life sentence."
Sounds simple, right? But it honestly hadn't occurred to me. Of course, I have a choice. I will always have choices. And that made it so much easier to make this choice. And so to Lagos we go.
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